5 Lebanese Sweets
Lebanese Baklawa
Yes, you read it right -Baklawa- with a "w". I was trained in creating this most succulent, layered treasure by a Lebanese friend and since Arabic has no "V", "W" is substituted. Much the same is true with the "P" - does not exist in Arabic, so "B" is used, which makes Pepsi become Bebsi. In loyalty to one of the best Arab cooks I ever knew, I somewhat pretentiously insist on the Arabic pronunciation. But regardless, eating and enjoying it are the same, whatever it might be called.
I have been away from posting for almost two years, busy exploring other experiences in my life but I haven't stopped cooking, and often cooking includes baklawa, which then requires teaching others to make it. This is one dessert whose preparation terrifies people. And when first made in the rustic, dusty kitchens of the Middle East, it must have terrified most anyone, because the paper-thin dough would be rolled out on a large table, only the expert achieving a uniform thickness.
With the introduction of modern technology that laborious task has long been a labor of the past - in fact I never met an Arab cook who makes the dough by hand. We all know a good thing when we see it - and the frozen packages of phyllo dough in the market are good enough!
When I first made baklawa in the states years ago, phyllo dough was hard to find, and when I did find it, it had sat in a freezer for a long time, and the sheets were always stuck together and difficult to work with. Being a more common ingredient now, the sheets generally pull off neatly from the sheet below it, but not always. Regardless, it is a good idea to only work with phyllo when you have plenty of time, get everything you will need together, sit down and take a relaxing breath and whistle a happy tune as you gingerly pull the sheets off from one another. But be sure the dough is completely thawed or that will not happen.
When you bring it home frozen from the store, place it in the refrigerator if you will be working with it in the next few days, If it will be longer than a week freeze it. If you need the dessert that evening, open the package, take one encased roll at a time and microwave on full power for 1 minute. Let it sit for 10 minutes then zap it again for another minute (not recommended but is usually successful when in a hurry.) And if the dough sticks and tears, take another deep breath and be assured that only the top layer has to look perfect - everything underneath it can be patched and folded and holey.
When teaching cooking classes, this is the one dish that is most often requested and though I now have its preparation down to 15 minutes tops, I still call it a sitting job - there just aren't enough of those, so enjoy the sit for those jobs that you can. One student asked if they could use Pam instead of butter between each layer of dough. I told her sure, but that I wouldn't want to eat it. If you're going to bother with it in the first place, use ingredients that will make it taste as delicious as it was meant to be. Butter is a must. I prefer salted butter for the salty contrast that plays against the very sweet notes. Butter will create the distinct layers so that when you bite into a piece you hear a hundred different pops of crunchy buttery, sweetness in your mouth.
As suggested earlier, what's in a name -baklava or baklawa- "a rose by any other name would smell as sweet"; so let's talk about rosewater....then let's talk about ghee. Rosewater is generally added to the syrup in the Middle East but is an acquired taste. I would rather dab rose water on my wrists than eat it, so I don't use it. And then ghee (clarified butter) is called for in many authentic recipes which I think is totally uncalled for. Ghee has a distinct flavor that those in my family refer to as a little "goaty". That's difficult to explain, but suffice it to say, it is not pleasant.
With all this being said, baklawa is not difficult to make. Perhaps a bit tedious but once adoring fans have eagerly consumed it, you will probably feel it was worth it. My children gather round like panting wolves ready to pounce on its prey as soon as it is ready - or even before. My oldest can eat half a pan but is ill the rest of the day after doing so but seems to lack the control to stop. Baklawa is a demanding taskmaster - sitting there glistening with all its buttery layers and crunchy nuts teased with cinnamon; expecting us to master our appetites and yet punishing us when we give in to its temptation and don't.
Pay attention to the specific notes and recommendations below. I have made it so often I know a lot of tricks. I have even been told by Arabs themselves that mine is as good as their mothers. (But don't tell their mothers.)
Baklawa
1 lb. pecans, walnuts or shelled pistachios, finely chopped
(or use a combo of all 3 nuts)
1/3 cup sugar
2 tab. cinnamon
½ tsp. ground cloves
1 package phyllo pastry, thawed
1 ½ cups melted butter
SYRUP:
2 1/2 cups sugar
1 2/3 cups water
1 slice lemon
1 stick cinnamon
-Combine nuts, 1/3 cup sugar, cinnamon and grounc cloves in food processor. Finely chop and set aside.
-Butter bottom of 9 x 13 inch glass baking dish. Unwrap 1 roll of phyllo dough and lay out flat on work surface. (Dough will dry out quickly. If this is your first time working with phyllo you may want to place a sheet of plastic wrap over the dough while you are working with the sheets in the pan. Once you are faster, this won't be necessary.)
-Place 2 sheets of phyllo in bottom of dish. With pastry brush, brush completely with melted butter. Place 2 more sheets and brush with butter. Continue layering and brushing 2 sheets at a time until you have used 12 sheets of phyllo. (if the dough sheets don't fit your pan exactly, you may fold the dough under on one end, and alternate the fold to the other end with the next layer.)
-Sprinkle phyllo evenly with 1/3 of nut mixture. Place 2 sheets phyllo over nut mixture and brush with butter. Repeat filling and phyllo layers two more times.
-Continue layering and brushing 2 sheets of phyllo at a time until you have used all the sheets in the package - both rolls (approximately 24 more total sheets of pastry.)
-Tuck in edges of phyllo and cut into diamond shapes approximately 2 inches long by 1 1/2 inches wide, with a sharp serrated knife. (Do this by cutting vertically along the long edge making 5 even cuts. Then at a 45 degree angle, start at one corner and cut to the opposite side. Make your next 45 degree angle cut about 1 1/2 inches from your first one. Wet fingers to keep phyllo from sticking to them or place the pan in the fridge for 30 minutes before cutting. Pour remaining butter over baklawa. Sprinkle with water to keep top layers from curling during baking.
-Bake in 350 degree oven for about 45 minutes. If top becomes too brown, cover loosely with foil.
-Meantime, prepare syrup. Combine water, sugar and cinnamon stick in medium saucepan. Stir and bring to boil over medium high heat. Let boil for 10 minutes on medium low heat. Do not stir once mixture begins to boil or it will become cloudy. (Cover the pan with a lid for the last 3 minutes to melt any sugar crystals that may have formed on the sides of the pan.) Squeeze the lemon quarter's juice into the syrup and add lemon to the hot liquid. Let mixture cool to room temperature.
-Pour cooled syrup over warm baklava. (The pastry appears to be floating in the syrup at this point - you will be amazed to see how it soaks it all up. Let sit for several hours or overnight at room temperature. If you don't let it sit long enough, some of the syrup may not be absorbed but can still be served - just a little soupier than the ideal.) Re-cut pieces again with sharp knife to make sure you have cut through all the layers, then serve.
Jordanian Mint Lemonade
The most refreshing lemonade you’ve ever tasted!
Prepare to be impressed and refreshed! If you make no other drink this summer, let it be this one! Lemonade made with fresh lemons has always seemed so refreshing to me. But I discovered a version which takes the basics to a whole new, easy and quick level. I truly don't think I've ever had a drink more refreshing.
This discovery was made while sitting in a small cafe on a side road off of Manger Square in Bethlehem. I was waiting for a large order of felafel sandwiches and shwarma for a group of twenty people we had taken to the Middle East, who were occupied shopping in the Olive Wood shops.
My sister was out in front with the felafel maker who was letting her try her hand at scooping the chickpea paste into the felafel press and dropping it into the large wok shaped pan of hot oil. I couldn't bear to watch my sister who has never cooked! (I suppose he put her felafel balls in our order.)
I took a seat inside to pay the bill where I observed a green drink being prepared at the counter. It was the green that made me inquisitive and after troubling the waiter, asking what it was and being told it was mint lemonade, I felt obligated to try some. The instantaneous burst of tart lemon and bold mint sweetened with just the right amount of sugar convinced me that this was the singular most wonderful lemonade I had ever tasted!
And so, as we continued our journey, at every restaurant, I ordered mint lemonade and eventually had the entire tour group ordering it. It took another visit with another group back to the Middle East where I finally watched closely to see how it was done. An obliging waiter prepared a glass at the Dead Sea Marriott Hotel and I was able to witness first-hand how it was created. I call this Jordanian Mint Lemonade, for though I first tasted it in Bethlehem, we have discovered it everywhere in Jordan among a host of lemonade stand entrepreneurs.
Mint Lemonade (Jordanian)
1 cup simple syrup (see below)
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1 cup loosely packed mint leaves, cleaned and picked
from stems
2 cups ice chips or cubes
Simple Syrup: In a small saucepan, combine 2/3 cups sugar with 2/3 cups water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and allow to boil for about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
In a blender, pour simple syrup, lemon juice and add mint leaves. Blend on high speed for about 2 minutes. While running blender, add ice through top feeder and blend another minute or so until ice is blended and mixture is frothy.
Serve immediately with sprig of mint and lemon slice, if desired. Makes 4 cups lemonade.
(Serves 4 - 5)
Maa’moul Eid Cookies
An ancient cookie that originated in Egypt, this treat is indigenous to the Middle East and prepared for Easter and Eids. A soft buttery cookie with surprise fillings of dates or nuts, they are a delicious bite for present day feasters as well!
Maa’moul Cookies – Middle Eastern Cookies
For the cookie dough:
2 cups semolina flour
1 cup all purpose flour
½ tablespoon ground cinnamon
dash of salt.
1 cup butter, softened
1 tablespoon milk
¼ teaspoon active dry yeast
3 tablespoons simple syrup
1/4 - 1/3 cup warm milk.
Date filling:
1 cup dates pitted dates
1 teaspoon butter
1 tablespoon orange blossom water
1 tablespoon roasted sesame seeds.
Pistachio filling:
1 ¼ cup shelled pistachios.
1 tablespoon powdered sugar.
2 tablespoons simple syrup
1 teaspoon butter
Walnut filling:
▢1 ½ cup walnuts
▢1 tablespoon powdered sugar
▢1 teaspoon cinnamon.
▢2 tablespoons simple syrup
▢1 teaspoon butter
To make cookie dough:
-Melt butter in microwave or in a small pot on the stovetop, just until melted. In a medium bowl, place semolina, flour, cinnamon, salt and mix. Pour in the melted butter and mix well. Use the palms of your hands and rub the semolina mixture for a couple of minutes. Cover and refrigerate several hours or up to 3 days.
-Take the dough out of the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature to soften slightly. Add tablespoon of milk, yeast and mix well. Mix in the syrup then add the milk little by little until the dough is soft and rolls nicely into a ball. Cover and let dough rest for 1 hour. Divide the dough into 24 balls. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
To make the filling and assemble:
(You can make your cookies with just one filling or with all three. Each recipe of filling is enough to make all 20 cookies in the recipe, so adjust your filling recipes accordingly.)
-In a food processor, combine the ingredients of each filling and process to desired texture until the mixture becomes almost like a paste. Divide the filling of your choice into 24 portions or balls and set aside.
-With lightly floured hands, create balls from your cookie dough, 20 - 24 balls. Take one at a time and with your thumb create an indention in the dough deep enough to hold about a teaspoon of the filling. Close the dough over the filling completely and shape again into a ball. If using a maa’,oul press, lightly flour the press and press the ball firmly into the center of the mold. Invert onto a lightly greased cookie sheet and tap until the cookie comes out of the mold.
-If not using a mold, roll the cookie into a ball and flatten a bit then on cookie sheet. Place the sheet in to the preheated oven and bake for 18 - 20 minutes or until the tops are lightly golden. Cool on the baking sheet for about 5 minutes then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar and serve. Makes 20 - 24 cookies.
Osmaliyah - Filo filled with Ashta Cream
One of the most delicious desserts you’ll ever encounter! Layered sheets or strands of buttery filo pastry filled with a simple Arab cream called Ashta, then sweetened with cinnamon spiked simple syrup. “Mumtaz!”
OsmalIya
1 package Kataifi Filo dough, or Filo Dough Sheets
1 stick butter, melted
2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup water
1 tablespoon orange blossom water
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cinnamon stick
coarsely ground pistachios for garnish
Ashta Cream Filling:
2 cups whole milk
1 cup whipping cream
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoon cornstarch
2 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon orange blossom water (optional)
Directions for Ashta Cream:
Whisk the sugar, cornstarch and flour together in a medium saucepan. Add 1 cup of the milk, and whisk with the dry ingredients until smooth. Slowly add the remaining milk and cream over medium high heat. Continue whisking until the mixture starts to thicken and boil. Continue beating for 30 seconds more until very thick. Stir in the orange blossom water if using.
Immediately pour cream into a bowl and cover with plastic wrap, making sure the plastic touches the top of the Ashta cream. Let come to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to use.
Direction for Osmaliya:
-Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease 10-inch cake pan with butter or cooking spray
-Melt 1 stick of butter. In a large bowl, separate and pull apart the Katiafi Filo dough until the strands are somewhat loose and separated. Pour the melted butter over the dough and massage the butter throughout the pulled apart Kataifi strands.
-Take half of the filo and press down into the pan and up a bit on the edges.
-Next, layer the Ashta cream over the first layer of dough, then place the remaining Kataifi dough over the cream to cover all the Ashta.
-Bake for 40 -45 minute or until golden brown. You can broil for 2 minutes at the end if is is not golden brown.
-Meanwhile, prepare the simple syrup by bringing all the simple syrup ingredients to a boil in a medium pot. Simmer for 15 minutes until syrup has thickened. (Do not stir once the mixture has begun to boil or it will become cloudy.) Remove the cinnamon stick. Let cool to warm.
-When the Osmaliya is baked, flip it carefully onto a round serving tray and generously drizzle with the cooled simple syrup.
When using Filo sheets:
-Layer 2 sheets at a time into the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch baking dish, then brush with melted butter (this method will require perhaps another 1/2 cup of melted butter.) Continue, layering 2 sheets at a time and buttering until you have used a total of 12 sheets. Spread the Ashta cream over the filo sheets, then continue to layer 2 filo sheets at a time, brushing each with melted butter until you have topped the cream with another 12 sheets of filo.
-Lightly score the top of the pastry through just a few layers of filo into 2 X 3 inch squares. Tuck in the edges of the pastry all around the dish and bake 40 - 45 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let rest 10 minutes. With a serrated blade, carefully cut through the scoring all the way to the bottom, through all the layers to re-create the 2 x 3 inch squares. Pour the simple syrup over the pastry and allow to cool at least one hour.
-Serve warm with extra simple syrup on the side, if desired.
Shredded Kataifi Rolls
A delicious Mediterranean pastry made with shredded filo pastry and filled with nuts! A treasure of a treat!
Riding in horse drawn buggies with colorful, fringed awnings in the Egyptian city of Luxor, we bumpily passed vendors out on the sidewalks in front of their shops, pouring a thin batter onto a large round griddle. Then, running a many bladed pizza-like cutter around the large crepe-like creation, thin strips of pastry like shredded wheat, piled up.
It was Ramadan as we witnessed the creation of “Kataifi” used in pastries devoured when the sun wasn’t watching. This unique shredded filo pasty is most famously used in the creation of k’nafi, a Palestinian sweet composed of a crust of kataifi shreds, well buttered and covered with buffalo chesse (to be authentic) or mozzarella (easier to come by) or a sweet cream custard (“ashta” cream) - in my opinion the best of the three. Big silver trays of “k’nafi” adorn the doorways of pastry stalls in Jerusalem and elsewhere in the Middle East, glistening with a cinnamon-spiked simple syrup, “atar’, used on most Middle Eastern pastry.
Though “kataifi” is used in Greek and Turkish cooking, historians suggest that it was created in Egypt, and was developed to help satisfy hunger during a religious festival. Word got out and this delicate pastry that lives to soak up butter, spread across the Levant and to the outcroppings of Europe. Who would not embrace it, once sampled!
As though there weren’t enough delicious pastries made with filo, here comes another, of course with a nod to Baklawa, the belle of Arab pastries. In fact, some would say if they have Baklawa, what more could they want! But there is more and this recipe like several others is worthy of note and perhaps easier to prepare. Check for Armenian Bourma on this blog as well. The common ingredients are filo, butter, nuts, cinnamon, doused with sweet syrup, just in varied forms. No horse-drawn buggies required to hunt this pastry down as most international groceries now carry it. But it is hard to beat the ambiance of a carriage ride through the streets of Luxor on a festive Ramadan evening.
Greek Kataifi Me Amigthala
l pound Kataifi pastry (available in Middle Eastern Groceries)
2 sticks melted butter, 1 cup
1 cup shelled and ground pistachios
2 cups shelled and ground almonds
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoons ground cloves
1 egg white
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
2-inch strip of lemon rind
4 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon honey
-Allow the kataifi pastry to come to room temperature, still covered in its packaging. If frozen solidly, this will take about 2 hours. Pastry should be completely thawed before working with it.
-Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Brush a 9 X 12-inch baking tray with some melted butter.
-Place the nuts in the bowl of a food processor with the cinnamon and cloves. Pulse until nuts are finely ground. Lightly beat the egg white with a fork and add to the mixture. Mix briefly to make a paste. Divide the mixture into 8 portions and form each into a sausage shape about 7 inches long. (Dampen your hands before shaping each log to keep mixture from sticking.)
-Divide the pastry into 7 portions. Take 1 portion of the pastry strands and spread them out fairly compactly with the strands running lengthwise towards you. The pastry should measure about 10 X 7 inches. Brush and dab the pastry with melted butter. Place one of the “nut” sausages along the end of the pastry nearest to you and roll up into a neat sausage shape, keeping the nut log in the center of the pastry strands. Roll as neatly and tightly as possible, tucking the loose strands in as you go. (It is impossible to get the strands to behave just as you would like but just do your best.) Repeat with the other pastry portions.
-Place the rolls close together on the baking sheet and brush them well with more melted butter. Every surface of the pastry should be coated with butter. Bake for 50 minutes or until golden brown.
-While the pastries are cooking, place the remaining sugar in a medium saucepan with 2 cups water and stir over low heat until dissolved. Add the lemon juice, rind, cloves and cinnamon stick then bring to a boil. Stop stirring once the mixture comes to a boil or it will become cloudy and may crystallize. Boil over medium heat for about 10 minutes or until slightly thickened. Stir in the honey, remove the lemon rind and set aside to cool completely.
-Remove pastries from the oven when cooked and allow to cool on the baking sheet for about 5 minutes. Pour the cool syrup over the top, as evenly as possible. Leave the rolls to soak in the syrup and cool completely before cutting each roll into 5 pieces. The Kataifi should absorb most of the syrup as it cools.
-Makes 40 pieces. Serve at room temperature.
